UNESCO Committee to Examine Candidacy of 68 Intangible Cultural Heritage Elements
The Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of UNESCO will meet from December 8 to 13, 2025, in New Delhi, India, to examine the candidacy of 68 elements, including some multinational ones, presented by 78 countries from around the world for inscription on the Lists of the 2003 Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage.
The "Khôl" or "al Khol al-arbi" File: A Multinational Candidacy
Among the multinational candidacies is the joint Arab file of "Khôl" or "al Khol al-arbi", submitted on April 2, 2024, for inscription on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of UNESCO. This file is supported by nine countries: Syria, Iraq, Jordan, Libya, Oman, Palestine, Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates, and Tunisia. The national inventory sheet of intangible cultural heritage submitted by the Center of Arts, Culture, and Letters (CACL) highlights the geographical context, detailed description of the element, manufacturing stages, uses, and transmission of this practice to new generations, as a know-how related to traditional craftsmanship.
The Use of Khôl in Tunisia
The use of Khôl is common in all regions of Tunisia and constitutes a social practice shared by different age groups, both in daily life and during numerous ceremonies. However, the manufacture of Khôl using traditional methods has declined, now limited to a few artisans in rural areas and, more rarely, in urban areas, even though this tradition remains deeply rooted. While the use of Khôl for aesthetic purposes has spread throughout the territory, the southern region of Tunisia remains the most closely associated with this practice and its rituals, particularly masculine ones, in a specific ceremonial context absent in other regions, such as the north.
The History and Symbolism of Khôl
The use of Khôl since antiquity by societies and civilizations with different customs and cultures, and over long historical periods, has produced an element rich in diversity and symbolism from one country to another, and within the same country between its different regions. Since ancient times, women have attached great importance to beauty, developing materials and tools to meet this desire to be beautiful. Thus, they extracted raw materials and ingredients from nature, from plants, stones, and even certain animals, from which they manufactured cosmetics according to precise steps. Among the oldest and most durable products is Khôl, which is still widely used today despite the rise of modern cosmetics. It remains one of the oldest materials used for both beauty and medicine.
The Manufacturing Process of Khôl
The manufacture of Khôl involves several stages, including the selection of antimony stone to ensure its quality. The stone is either soaked in water after being wrapped in a clean cloth or placed directly on the fire in a clay pot until it crumbles and purifies. The antimony pieces are then crushed in a copper mortar, with the measured addition of other ingredients, including date pits. If, in some regions, the date pit remains a secondary component, it is the main ingredient in others, particularly in southern Tunisia, a land of palm groves and renowned dates. The pits are washed, dried in the sun, and then grilled over low heat until completely blackened. They are then crushed, sifted, and stored in small glass containers or a copper Khôl container, before proceeding to the application, which is done using a copper or wooden stick called "mirwed".
The Importance of Khôl in Tunisian Culture
Khôl is one of the most important materials for enhancing the beauty of the eyes and creating a specific black halo. While it is particularly used by women in daily life and during festive ceremonies and religious holidays, it is also used by men and even children. Beyond its aesthetic use, Khôl, considered as "Sunna of the Prophet", especially on the day of Ashura, has a recognized therapeutic dimension: it purifies the eyes, protects against infections, improves vision, and promotes the growth of eyelashes and even hair. In desert regions and southern Tunisia, men apply it to protect themselves from eye diseases and sandstorms.
The Enduring Tradition of Khôl
In several regions, Khôl remains a enduring tradition: the groom is adorned with it on the evening of his wedding, boys are ornamented with it on the occasion of circumcision, women apply it on Wednesday evening, convinced that it protects them for life, and on the forehead of newborns, a light stroke is deposited to protect them from diseases and the evil eye.
