A Hidden Gem in the Heart of Tunis’ Medina: Dar Monastiri, Home of the National Calligraphy Center
By [Your Name] – Cultural Heritage Correspondent
A Green‑Painted Door Leads to History
Tucked away in a quiet alley of the Tunis medina, just a stone’s throw from the mausoleum of Sidi Mahrez, a large wooden door painted green catches the eye. Behind this threshold lies Dar Monastiri—sometimes called Dar Mestiri—a grand early‑19th‑century residence that now houses the National Center for Calligraphy. Within its thick walls, the patient strokes of modern calligraphers converse with the medina’s history, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979.
A Gift to a Tunisian Notable
- Address: 9 Monastiri Street, Tunis
- Construction period: Reign of Mahmoud Bey (1814‑1824)
Historical records indicate that the house was erected by Prince Hussein, son of the bey, and later presented to Mohamed Monastiri, a notable and chaouachi (artisan and seller of traditional red caps). Tunisian historian and statesman Ahmed Ibn Abi Dhiaf mentions Monastiri’s prominent place in early‑19th‑century capital society. After his death in 1821, the property passed to his son, who continued the family’s trade in the souq of chaouachines.
French architect‑historian Jacques Revault documented such urban residences in his study Palais et demeures de Tunis (XVIIIᵉ‑XIXᵉ siècles), analysing plan evolution, materials, and décor under the Mouradite and Husainid dynasties. Over the decades, Dar Monastiri changed hands several times: part of the estate reverted to the state, while another portion was acquired by the Fourati family, which carried out extensive restoration work at the end of the 19th century.
Typical Architecture of the Medina’s Grand Houses
Like most large dwellings of the old city, Dar Monastiri is organized around a spacious central patio, the heart of the home, from which the living spaces radiate.
- Entrance: A double‑leaf door featuring a small opening called bab el‑khoukha, historically used to enter without opening the main portal.
- Levels: Two stories bordered by arcaded galleries.
- Room layout: Some chambers follow a T‑shaped plan inspired by the iwan, a common Islamic architectural form.
- Windows: Upper‑floor windows are adorned with moucharabiehs (locally known as qannariyya), providing privacy while allowing air and light to circulate.
The walls are tiled with traditional ceramic motifs dominated by greens and yellows, complemented by marble, carved stucco, and finely worked wood—an aesthetic that blends Andalusian and Moorish influences. According to Yassine Mokrani, director of the National Calligraphy Center and chief curator at the National Heritage Institute, the house originally featured several rain‑water collection systems, such as majels (cisterns), and likely a well. The walls, nearly a meter thick, keep interiors cool in summer and warm in winter.
A Historic Residence Turned Artistic Hub
- 1922: Classified as a historic monument.
- 1924‑1940: Served various cultural functions—Institute of Arts and Crafts, Office of Artisan Education, and Regional Center for Tunisian Arts.
- 1992: Major restoration by the National Heritage Institute.
- 2017: Became the National Center for Calligraphy (after a stint as the National Translation Center).
Today, the rooms surrounding the patio host students of all ages learning the art of Arabic calligraphy. They study scripts such as Naskh, Diwani, Thuluth, Riq‘a, the Maghreb style, and traditional Islamic ornamental techniques. The center regularly organizes exhibitions, workshops, and artistic meetings, including projects to digitize historic calligraphic works.
Between Memory and Creation
In the soft light filtering from the patio, the silence is occasionally broken by the gentle glide of a calame (reed pen) across paper. Where once the elite of Tunisian society lived, the art of the Arabic letter now thrives. According to Mokrani, a new project aims to transform the house into a Museum of Inscriptions and Calligraphic Arts.
Dar Monastiri exemplifies the lifestyle of Tunisian urban elites in the 18th and 19th centuries, where heritage, memory, and creativity intersect. Two centuries after its construction, the residence continues to narrate its story, fostering a dialogue among architecture, urban memory, and the art of writing—right in the beating heart of the medina of Tunis.
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